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PLEASE READ BELOW BEFORE INSTALLING YOUR ENCODER!

1. Install it collet side first, just like the original plastic one.  

2. Firmly, but gently push against the flat side with one finger.  IF IT IS TOO TIGHT, don’t force it.  Use a bit of fine grit sandpaper rolled up on a toothpick and gently remove a little of the metal.  Test it frequently and be patient.  It should slide on with a bit of resistance   It won't take much to get it to fit, so be careful.  If it is too loose, see number 6.1 below.

3. Do not hold it by the sides when pushing.  It is solid brass, but it is thin in the slotted area, and may bend out of shape. If it isn’t in pieces, use your old encoder to push it further onto the motor spindle.  

4. Test its position frequently.  Put the PCB back on top often to check where it sits in relation to the black signal receiver.  It should finally be as close to the black signal receiver as you can without rubbing against the PC board that sits on top.  The groove is on the inside of the brass encoder not the outside like the plastic one, therefore needs to be closer to the receiver.  It is a little bit like shadow puppets...close to the light source, fuzzy image...closer to the wall, sharper image.  This will ensure alignment on the first try.

5. Be careful when handling the PCB.  The black and white sensors need to be in alignment.  If you are not careful, you could bend them out of alignment.  This will cause a failure to calibrate.

6. If your encoder doesn’t calibrate on the first try, don’t despair.  
There are only five reasons your new brass encoder would fail to calibrate. 

  1. Encoder is loose.  The encoder is designed for a “friction fit”.  It must be snug.  Gently hold the encoder with a finger and try to turn the steering wheel.  If you can move the encoder under the slight weight of your finger, it is tight enough.  If the wheel turns and the encoder doesn’t turn, its too loose.  You will need to use a drop of Loctite brand glue available at most autoparts stores.  This glue is designed to hold under high heat conditions, such as automobile engines.  The Force Feed Back motors get very hot with regular use and normal glues will fail.

  2. The encoder is bent.  The encoder must not be bent or warped.  It is shipped in a plastic holder specifically to prevent damage during shipping.  So, if it is bent, it most likely occurred during installation.  You may be able to flatten it with a pair of long nosed pliers and some patience.  The objective is to get it to run true again.

  3. The encoder is not close enough to the black receiving sensor.  In order to effectively mill these items by hand, the groove must be cut on the “motor” side of the encoder.  This means it is slightly farther away from the signal receiver.  Therefore, it must be pushed so close to the PCB that it almost touches it, but not rub on it when it spins.  Otherwise, it may not read the signal.

  4. The black and/or white signal transmitter and receiver are not in alignment.  During installation, it is possible that they get bent out of alignment.  You must spend some time to get them back into alignment.

  5. You have the wrong encoder.  Please compare your old plastic encoder to the new brass encoder.  They must have the same number of slots.  60 slot units and 30 slot units are not interchangeable.  



One of my customers has generously created a series of videos on how to disassemble a G25 and replace the encoder.  The G27 isn’t exactly the same, but it is close enough for comparison.

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http://youtu.be/bCSTOb28Ero
http://youtu.be/EhYpWAmZVjQ
http://youtu.be/23ahB-YfkC0
http://youtu.be/Sg2qNEX81Wg